Caviar Has Become the Costco Rotisserie Chicken of Fine Dining
Chinese aquaculture has revolutionized the caviar industry, driving wholesale prices down by 45% since 2014, enabling chefs to present the delicacy as an accessible luxury.
The gleaming black-and-gold dining room at Coqodac is rowdy, and it isn’t even open for dinner yet. A table of “rappers and podcast hosts” are lingering over a late $4,000 caviar-and-champagne lunch, executive chef Seung Kyu Kim says. He doesn’t mind — he wants his Manhattan restaurant, notorious for its caviar-topped chicken nuggets ($28 per nugget), to be a...
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